
## Your Chain Is Your Most Critical Connection

<PullQuote>
A neglected chain doesn't just make noise—it systematically destroys your cassette and chainrings, turning a $30 problem into a $200 one.
</PullQuote>

Everything you do on a bike flows through your chain. Every pedal stroke, every climb, every mile. It's the most stressed component on your bike, and on bikepacking trips—loaded with gear, grinding through grit and water—that stress multiplies.

The good news: chain maintenance is simple once you understand the basics. Twenty minutes of attention before a trip and a few minutes each day on trail keeps your drivetrain running smoothly for thousands of miles.

This guide covers everything you need to maintain your chain at home and repair it on trail. For the complete maintenance picture, see our [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide).

---

## Understanding Chain Wear

Chains don't "stretch"—they elongate as pins and rollers wear against each other. This elongation is measured as a percentage of the original length.

### Why Wear Matters

<Warning title="Wear Cascades">
A worn chain doesn't just shift poorly. It wears your cassette and chainring teeth to match its elongated pitch. When you finally replace the chain, the new one skips on the worn cogs—forcing replacement of the entire drivetrain.
</Warning>

**The cost of neglect:**
- Chain replacement: $20-50
- Cassette replacement: $50-150
- Chainring replacement: $30-100+
- Total drivetrain: $100-300+

Replacing your chain at the right time saves your cassette and chainrings for multiple chain lifetimes.

### How to Measure Chain Wear

**Chain checker tools (recommended):**
1. Insert the hook end into a chain roller
2. Drop the other end toward the chain
3. Read the indicator at 0.5% and 0.75% marks
4. If it drops in at 0.5%, replace the chain
5. If it drops in at 0.75%, replace chain and probably cassette

**Ruler method (backup):**
1. Count 24 full links (pin to pin, each full link is 1 inch)
2. Measure pin center to pin center
3. A new chain measures exactly 12 inches (24 x 0.5")
4. At 12 1/16" (0.5% wear), replace chain
5. At 12 1/8" (1% wear), replace everything

### When to Check

| Condition | Check Interval |
|-----------|----------------|
| Road riding, clean conditions | Every 1000 miles |
| Gravel/dry dust | Every 500 miles |
| Wet/muddy conditions | Every 250-300 miles |
| Before multi-day trips | Always |

---

## Chain Cleaning Methods

A clean chain runs quieter, shifts better, and lasts longer. How you clean depends on available resources.

### Quick Trail Cleaning

When you're out for days without access to a hose:

1. **Wipe down with rag** - Hold chain in rag, backpedal through several rotations
2. **Brush between plates** - Small brush or old toothbrush removes packed grit
3. **Inspect for damage** - Look for stiff links, damaged rollers
4. **Relube** - Apply fresh lube to clean surface
5. **Wipe excess** - Remove outer lube that attracts dirt

**Trail cleaning frequency:** Every 1-3 days depending on conditions

### Deep Cleaning (At Home)

Before every multi-day trip:

**Method 1: Chain cleaning device**
1. Fill device reservoir with degreaser
2. Clip around chain
3. Backpedal 50+ rotations
4. Empty dirty degreaser, refill with clean
5. Repeat until clean
6. Rinse with water
7. Dry thoroughly before lubing

**Method 2: Remove and soak**
1. Open quick link with pliers
2. Remove chain completely
3. Soak in degreaser container for 10-15 minutes
4. Shake or agitate periodically
5. Scrub stubborn deposits with brush
6. Rinse thoroughly
7. Dry completely (air dry or use cloth)
8. Reinstall and lube

### What NOT to Use

- **WD-40 alone** - It's a solvent/water displacer, not a lubricant
- **Gasoline or harsh solvents** - Damage rollers and bushings
- **High-pressure water** - Forces water into rollers where it causes corrosion
- **Dish soap** - Leaves residue that attracts dirt

---

## Choosing and Applying Chain Lube

Lube choice depends primarily on conditions. Both wet and dry lubes work; the question is which works better for your environment.

### Wet Lube

**Best for:**
- Rain, stream crossings, morning dew
- Mud and wet grit
- Extended trips where reapplication isn't possible

**Characteristics:**
- Stays liquid, doesn't wash off easily
- Attracts more dirt and grit
- Lasts longer between applications
- Requires more thorough cleaning

### Dry Lube

**Best for:**
- Dry, dusty conditions
- Summer riding
- Areas with fine sand or desert dust

**Characteristics:**
- Dries to waxy film
- Attracts less dirt
- Needs more frequent application
- Washes off in water

### Wax-Based Lubes

**Best for:**
- Riders who prioritize clean drivetrains
- Dry conditions
- Those willing to do more frequent maintenance

**Characteristics:**
- Extremely clean running
- Excellent for dry conditions
- Requires specific application method (some need hot dip)
- Washes off readily in wet conditions

### Application Technique

Proper application matters as much as lube choice:

1. **Start with clean chain** - Lube over grit creates grinding paste
2. **Apply to inner plates** - The inside of the chain, where rollers contact
3. **One drop per roller** - Backpedal slowly while applying
4. **Let penetrate** - Wait 5 minutes before wiping
5. **Wipe exterior thoroughly** - Excess outer lube attracts grit
6. **Less is more** - Thin layer inside beats thick layer everywhere

<Tip title="Pro Tip">
Apply lube the night before your ride. This gives it time to penetrate into rollers and allows you to wipe off more excess in the morning.
</Tip>

---

## Replacing Your Chain

When your chain checker drops in at 0.5%, it's replacement time.

### What You'll Need

- New chain (correct length and speed for your drivetrain)
- Chain tool
- Quick link for your chain speed
- Pliers (master link pliers preferred)

### Sizing Your New Chain

**Method 1: Match old chain**
1. Lay new chain next to old chain
2. Count links to ensure same length
3. This works only if old chain was correct length

**Method 2: Wrap and measure**
1. Route new chain through big-big (largest chainring, largest cog)
2. Skip the rear derailleur
3. Pull ends together
4. Add 2 full links to where they meet
5. This length accommodates derailleur cage

**Method 3: Manufacturer specs**
- Some bikes specify exact link counts
- Check your bike's documentation

### Breaking and Joining Chain

**Using chain tool:**
1. Place chain in tool, align pin with roller
2. Turn handle to push pin
3. Push pin most of the way through—not completely out
4. Leave pin barely flush with outer plate
5. Reverse to rejoin, pressing pin back through
6. Flex link side to side to free it up

**Using quick link (preferred):**
1. Push pin completely out (removing outer plate)
2. Thread quick link plates through chain ends
3. Pull chain taut while backpedaling
4. Click indicates link is seated
5. Verify both plates are fully engaged

---

## Trail Repair: Fixing a Broken Chain

A broken chain strands you. Knowing how to repair it gets you moving again.

### What to Carry

- Multi-tool with chain tool
- 2+ quick links (matching your chain speed)
- Master link pliers (optional but helpful)
- Small rag

### Repair Steps

1. **Assess the damage**
   - Identify broken/bent pins and plates
   - Determine how many links to remove

2. **Remove damaged section**
   - Use chain tool to push out pins on either side of damage
   - Remove the damaged links completely
   - You'll lose 1-2 full links minimum

3. **Rejoin with quick link**
   - Thread quick link plates through chain ends
   - Pull tight while engaging pedal
   - Click indicates secure connection

4. **Verify repair**
   - Visually inspect—both quick link plates should be fully seated
   - Flex the repaired link—should move freely
   - Backpedal through full chain loop
   - No tight or stiff spots

5. **Test under load**
   - Start gently
   - Gradually increase pedaling force
   - Listen for clicks or unusual sounds

### Dealing with a Shortened Chain

Removing links shortens your chain. Immediate implications:

**Minor shortening (1-2 links):**
- Avoid big-big gear combination
- Otherwise ride normally
- Replace chain at next opportunity

**Significant shortening (3+ links):**
- May not have full gear range
- Avoid cross-chaining
- Consider limiting yourself to 2/3 of cassette range
- Priority repair when possible
- If derailleur is also damaged, see [singlespeed conversion](/posts/emergency-field-repairs-bikepacking#the-singlespeed-conversion)

<Warning title="Critical">
A chain that's too short can damage your derailleur. If chain feels tight in larger cogs, don't shift there.
</Warning>

---

## Featured Products

<ProductCard
  name="Park Tool CC-3.2 Chain Checker"
  pickLabel="Our Pick"
  description="The industry standard for measuring chain wear. Drop one end into the chain, read the indicator—if it falls to 0.5%, replace your chain before it damages your cassette. The CC-3.2 is stamped steel that lasts forever and weighs just 35 grams. We've carried the same one for years. Every bikepacker should own one; bring it on extended trips to monitor wear over thousands of miles. Worth many times its cost in saved drivetrain components."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BS0XJQ?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["0.5% and 0.75% wear indicators", "Simple drop-in operation", "Stamped steel lasts forever", "35g—carry it with you", "Prevents expensive drivetrain damage"]}
  specs="Steel, 35g, dual indicators"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Finish Line Wet Bike Lubricant"
  pickLabel="Best Wet Lube"
  description="When your route includes rain, stream crossings, or morning dew, Wet lube stays put while dry lubes wash away. The synthetic formula provides excellent protection for hundreds of miles even in foul conditions. Yes, it attracts more dirt than dry lubes—that's the trade-off for durability. Wipe excess after applying and clean more frequently. The 4oz bottle lasts most bikepackers an entire season. Our go-to for Pacific Northwest riding and any wet-weather adventure."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Stays put in wet conditions", "Synthetic formula lasts 300+ miles", "Excellent corrosion protection", "4oz bottle perfect for extended trips", "Industry-trusted formula"]}
  specs="Synthetic wet lube, 4 oz"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Finish Line Dry Teflon Lubricant"
  pickLabel="Best Dry Lube"
  description="For dust, sand, and dry gravel—the conditions that describe most bikepacking—Dry lube runs cleaner while still protecting your chain. The Teflon formula dries to a waxy film that doesn't attract grit. Apply every few days instead of weekly, but your chain stays dramatically cleaner. Our default choice for desert riding, dry summer months, and any route where dust is the primary concern. The clean-running chain is worth the extra application frequency."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXQY?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Runs clean in dusty conditions", "Teflon formula repels dirt", "Dries to non-sticky film", "Reduces drivetrain wear", "4oz bottle for season-long use"]}
  specs="Teflon dry lube, 4 oz"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Park Tool CM-5.3 Cyclone Chain Scrubber"
  pickLabel="Best Chain Cleaner"
  description="The fastest way to deep clean a chain without removing it. Fill the reservoir with degreaser, clip it around your chain, and backpedal. The rotating brushes scrub all four chain surfaces simultaneously. Empty and refill until the solvent comes out clean. In ten minutes, your chain looks new. We use this before every major trip and monthly during heavy-riding seasons. Pairs perfectly with a fresh lube application. Far more effective than rag-wiping alone."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HR4FHV?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Cleans all chain surfaces simultaneously", "Rotating brush design", "Works without chain removal", "Quick 10-minute deep clean", "Reusable—just refill degreaser"]}
  specs="Removable reservoir, rotating brushes"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="SRAM PowerLock Chain Links (4-pack)"
  pickLabel="Our Pick"
  description="Every repair kit needs quick links. SRAM PowerLock links snap together by hand for fast chain repair without tools. The 4-pack ensures you have spares for multiple trips or multiple repairs. Available in 10, 11, and 12-speed—buy the version matching your drivetrain. We keep two in our trailside kit and two more in our home maintenance supplies. At a few dollars per link, there's no excuse not to have plenty. SRAM recommends single-use only—do not reuse for safety."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLYMN9A?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Snap together without tools", "4-pack provides backups", "Single-use per SRAM specs", "10/11/12-speed options", "Essential repair kit item"]}
  specs="4 links, speed-specific"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Pedro's Pro Chain Keeper"
  pickLabel="Also Good"
  description="When deep-cleaning your chain at home, the Chain Keeper holds your rear wheel's position while the chain is removed. This prevents derailleur damage and makes reinstallation easier. Just snap it into your rear dropout and route the chain through. Especially valuable for bikes with internally-routed cables where derailleur position matters. Not essential, but professional shops use them for good reason. Makes chain cleaning and replacement less fiddly."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M2D9TA?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Holds derailleur position", "Easier chain reinstallation", "Prevents derailleur damage", "Works during cleaning", "Pro shop standard"]}
  specs="Fits most rear dropouts"
  rating={4}
/>

---

## Chain Maintenance Schedule

| When | Action |
|------|--------|
| **Every ride** | Quick visual check for damage |
| **Every 100-200 miles** | Wipe down and relube |
| **Every 500 miles** | Check wear with chain checker |
| **Every 1000 miles or deep clean** | Full cleaning and fresh lube |
| **At 0.5% wear** | Replace chain |
| **Before multi-day trips** | Full clean, fresh lube, wear check |

---

## FAQ

**Can I use WD-40 on my chain?**

WD-40 is a water displacer and light solvent, not a lubricant. You can use it to clean a chain, but you must apply proper chain lube afterward. Using WD-40 alone leaves your chain unprotected and accelerates wear.

**How long should chain lube last?**

Dry lubes typically need reapplication every 100-200 miles or after any water exposure. Wet lubes last longer—200-300 miles in dry conditions, but should be reapplied after significant water exposure. In wet conditions, check daily.

**Should I remove my chain to clean it?**

For deep cleaning, removing the chain allows the most thorough results. For routine maintenance, a chain cleaning device works well without removal. Both approaches work; choose based on how dirty the chain is and how much time you have.

**What if my chain tool doesn't push the pin?**

First, ensure the chain is properly seated in the tool's chain rest. Apply steady pressure—sudden force can slip. If a pin won't move, it may be a rivet-style link (some 11/12-speed chains use these). These require specific breaking points or should only be joined with quick links.

**Can I reuse quick links?**

It depends on the manufacturer. SRAM PowerLock links are designed for single use only—removal deforms the link and compromises the connection. Shimano quick links are also single-use. KMC Missing Links are generally reusable several times with careful handling. Always check manufacturer specifications and inspect for wear before reusing any link. When in doubt, use a fresh link—they're inexpensive insurance.

**My chain is making noise after lubing. What's wrong?**

Either too much lube (attracting grit) or too little (dry spots). Wipe thoroughly to remove excess, then ensure lube penetrated to the rollers. A thin interior layer beats a thick exterior coating. If noise persists, clean fully and relube properly.

---

## Related Guides

- [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide) - Full maintenance overview
- [Multi-Tool Guide](/posts/the-one-multi-tool-you-need-for-your-next-bikepacking-trip) - Chain tools and more
- [Derailleur Adjustment Guide](/posts/derailleur-adjustment-repair-bikepacking) - Shifting problems
- [Building Your Tool Kit](/posts/building-bikepacking-tool-kit) - What to carry

---

A well-maintained chain runs quiet, shifts smooth, and lasts thousands of miles. Neglect it, and you'll pay in worn components, frustrating shifting, and eventually a mid-trip failure.

The investment is minimal. The payoff is enormous. Keep your chain happy, and it'll carry you anywhere.


Bikepacking Chain Maintenance: Cleaning, Lubing, and Trail Repair

Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide: Keep Your Bike Running Anywhere


## When Shifting Goes Wrong

<PullQuote>
Poor shifting on a loaded bike grinding up a steep climb isn't just frustrating—it's exhausting. Every missed shift wastes energy. Understanding derailleur adjustment means riding efficiently, not fighting your bike.
</PullQuote>

Your derailleur is a precision instrument that positions your chain across different-sized cogs with millimeter accuracy. When it works, you don't think about it. When it doesn't, every shift reminds you something's wrong.

The good news: most shifting problems have simple causes and simple fixes. Cable tension, limit screws, and hanger alignment account for 95% of shifting issues. Master these adjustments and you'll fix most problems on trail without special tools.

For the complete maintenance picture, see our [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide). For related repairs, check our [Cable Replacement Guide](/posts/shift-cable-brake-cable-replacement).

---

## How Derailleurs Work

Before adjusting, understand what you're adjusting.

### Rear Derailleur Basics

**Cable tension:**
- Pulls the derailleur inward (toward larger cogs)
- Spring pushes outward (toward smaller cogs)
- Balance determines chain position

**Limit screws:**
- H (High) screw limits outward travel (prevents chain overshooting small cog)
- L (Low) screw limits inward travel (prevents chain going into spokes)
- Don't affect middle gears—only endpoints

**B-tension (body angle):**
- Adjusts derailleur cage distance from cassette
- Affects shifting quality, especially in largest cogs
- Usually set once and forgotten

**Indexing:**
- The click-stops in your shifter
- Must align with cog positions
- Controlled by cable tension

### Front Derailleur Basics

Less common on modern bikepacking bikes (1x drivetrains dominate), but similar principles:
- Cable tension moves cage inward
- Spring pushes cage outward
- Limit screws prevent chain from falling off chainrings
- Cage height and angle affect shifting quality

---

## Cable Tension Adjustment

90% of shifting problems are cable tension issues.

### Symptoms of Wrong Tension

**Too little tension:**
- Chain hesitates shifting to larger cogs
- Multiple clicks needed for upshifts
- Chain falls off the smallest cog under load

**Too much tension:**
- Chain overshifts, jumping past intended cog
- Chain hesitates shifting to smaller cogs
- Chain rubs in certain gear combinations

### Making Adjustments

<Tip title="Quarter Turns">
Barrel adjusters are sensitive. Turn in ¼-turn increments, test, then adjust again. It's easy to overshoot.
</Tip>

**Location of barrel adjusters:**
- Rear derailleur body
- Shifter (often inline on cable)
- Cable stops on frame

**To increase tension (shift to larger cogs easier):**
- Turn barrel adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from behind)
- This effectively lengthens the cable housing, increasing cable tension

**To decrease tension (shift to smaller cogs easier):**
- Turn barrel adjuster clockwise
- This shortens the cable housing, decreasing tension

### The Adjustment Process

1. Shift to smallest cog (rear) or smallest ring (front)
2. Note how the chain responds to one shift click
3. Does it move immediately to the next cog?
4. Does it hesitate or require multiple clicks?
5. Does it overshoot to the second cog?
6. Adjust barrel by ¼ turn based on symptoms
7. Repeat until shifts are crisp

### Testing Your Adjustment

After adjusting:
1. Shift through full range slowly
2. Shift through full range quickly
3. Shift under mild pedaling load
4. Check both directions (up and down cassette)
5. Any hesitation means further adjustment needed

---

## Limit Screw Adjustment

Limit screws are safety devices that prevent catastrophic chain placement.

### H Limit (High Gear)

Controls outward travel—prevents chain from overshooting the smallest cog and landing on the dropout.

**Checking H limit:**
1. Shift to smallest cog
2. Look from behind: derailleur pulley should align directly under smallest cog
3. If pulley is too far outward, chain can fall off
4. If pulley is too far inward, shifting to smallest cog may be sluggish

**Adjusting H limit:**
- Clockwise = moves derailleur inward (restricts outward travel)
- Counterclockwise = allows more outward movement
- Adjust so pulley sits directly under smallest cog

### L Limit (Low Gear)

Controls inward travel—prevents chain from overshooting the largest cog and hitting the spokes.

<Warning title="Spoke Danger">
Incorrect L limit can allow the chain to shift into your spokes. This can destroy the wheel, derailleur, and potentially cause a crash. Always verify L limit is properly set.
</Warning>

**Checking L limit:**
1. Shift to largest cog
2. Look from behind: pulley should align under largest cog
3. Try pushing derailleur inward by hand—it should not move past the largest cog
4. If it moves too far, chain can hit spokes

**Adjusting L limit:**
- Clockwise = restricts inward travel (more spoke protection)
- Counterclockwise = allows more inward movement
- Err on the side of caution—slightly restrict rather than allow

### When Limits Need Adjustment

**After:**
- Replacing cable (tension changes may reveal incorrect limits)
- Bending derailleur hanger (geometry changed)
- Installing new cassette (especially different size range)
- New derailleur installation

**Symptoms:**
- Chain falls off smallest cog = H limit too loose
- Chain won't reach smallest cog = H limit too tight
- Chain hits spokes or shifts past largest cog = L limit too loose
- Chain won't reach largest cog = L limit too tight

---

## Indexing and Fine-Tuning

With cable tension and limits correct, dial in the indexing.

### The Indexing Test

1. Shift to middle of cassette
2. Make one click on shifter
3. Chain should move precisely one cog
4. No hesitation, no overshoot
5. Both directions should feel the same

### Troubleshooting Indexing

**Slow upshifts (to larger cogs):**
- Increase cable tension (counterclockwise on barrel)
- Check for cable friction (housing damage, contamination)

**Slow downshifts (to smaller cogs):**
- Decrease cable tension (clockwise on barrel)
- Check for derailleur spring weakness

**Works fine cold, gets worse when hot:**
- Cable housing may be contaminated
- Consider replacement

**Works in stand, fails under load:**
- Often indicates cable stretch or housing compression
- May need cable/housing replacement

---

## Bent Derailleur Hanger

The derailleur hanger is designed to bend in a crash—protecting your frame. But a bent hanger ruins shifting.

### Signs of Bent Hanger

- Shifting works well in some gears, poorly in others
- Chain skip in certain cogs only
- Derailleur doesn't hang straight (viewed from behind)
- Gap between cassette and pulley varies as you shift

### Checking Hanger Alignment

**Visual check:**
1. Look at bike from directly behind
2. Derailleur cage should hang vertically
3. Compare to another bike if unsure
4. Even small bends are visible to a trained eye

**The measurement method:**
1. Remove rear wheel
2. Use a long ruler or straight stick
3. Hold against derailleur mount and hanger
4. Check for gaps indicating bend

### Trail Fixes

<Warning title="Proceed Carefully">
Bending a hanger carries risk of breaking it. Work slowly with gradual pressure. If hanger is severely bent, carrying a spare is a better solution.
</Warning>

**Gentle straightening:**
1. Shift chain to smallest cog
2. Remove wheel for access
3. Place adjustable wrench on hanger body (not derailleur)
4. Apply gentle, controlled pressure opposite the bend direction
5. Check alignment
6. Work in small increments

**Alternative: adjustable wrench on derailleur:**
1. For minor bends only
2. Grip derailleur cage with adjustable wrench
3. Use derailleur as lever to bend hanger
4. Risk: can stress derailleur itself

**Limitations:**
- Aluminum hangers work-harden—repeated bending weakens them
- Severely bent hangers may break
- Trail straightening is temporary—replace at next opportunity

### Carrying a Spare Hanger

**Why carry one:**
- Hangers are frame-specific
- They're designed to be sacrificial
- They're small and light
- Impossible to fabricate on trail

**Finding your hanger:**
- Check manufacturer website
- Many bikes use standard aftermarket hangers (Wheels Manufacturing)
- Order exact replacement before remote trips

---

## Featured Products

<ProductCard
  name="Wheels Manufacturing Derailleur Hanger"
  pickLabel="Essential Spare"
  description="Wheels Manufacturing makes replacement hangers for virtually every bike made in the last 20 years. Their catalog is extensive and their quality matches or exceeds OEM parts. Find your bike's model, order the correct part number, and carry it on every trip. At typically under $30 and weighing just a few grams, there's no excuse not to have this critical spare. We've seen trips saved by a spare hanger; we've seen trips ended without one. Get one before you need it."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GNDO0E?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Covers virtually all bike models", "Matches or exceeds OEM quality", "Light and compact", "Essential for remote rides", "Check their catalog for exact model"]}
  specs="CNC aluminum, model-specific"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Park Tool DAG-2.2 Derailleur Alignment Gauge"
  pickLabel="Professional Tool"
  description="For precise hanger alignment, nothing beats the DAG-2.2. The tool mounts to the hanger and provides multiple measurement points to identify exactly how and how much the hanger is bent. Then it serves as the straightening tool for precise correction. This is what professional shops use. For home mechanics who service multiple bikes, it pays for itself quickly. Too specialized for trail carry, but essential for proper repair at home. Your shifting will never be better than your hanger alignment."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LWGBQ6?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Professional-grade accuracy", "Measure and straighten with one tool", "Works on all derailleur hangers", "Essential home shop tool", "What bike shops use"]}
  specs="Steel construction, universal fit"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Jagwire Pro Shift Cable Kit"
  pickLabel="Best Cable Set"
  description="When cables stretch, fray, or housing compresses, shifting suffers no matter how well your derailleur is adjusted. The Jagwire Pro kit includes pre-stretched Slick Stainless cables, sealed cable housing, and all necessary end caps and ferrules for a complete replacement. The sealed housing resists contamination far better than open coil housing. For bikepackers doing pre-trip preparation, fresh cables eliminate one more potential failure point. Includes both shift and brake cables."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UEUPRE?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Pre-stretched cables", "Sealed housing", "All hardware included", "Professional quality", "Complete replacement kit"]}
  specs="Shift and brake cables, sealed housing"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Park Tool CN-10 Cable and Housing Cutter"
  pickLabel="Essential Tool"
  description="Proper cable cuts require proper tools. The CN-10 makes clean, square cuts through both cable and housing without crushing the housing interior. Crushed housing creates friction that ruins shifting feel. The built-in crimper handles cable end caps and ferrules. If you're replacing cables yourself, this tool is non-negotiable. Cheap side-cutters work once; the CN-10 works thousands of times. Every home shop needs one."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OZBM2G?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Clean cuts without crushing", "Built-in crimper", "Works on cable and housing", "Professional quality", "Essential for cable work"]}
  specs="Hardened steel jaws, crimping function"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Shimano Shift Cable"
  pickLabel="Spare for Kit"
  description="Shimano's basic shift cables work with any derailleur system and cost very little. Keep a spare in your repair kit—shift cables can fray at the anchor bolt or break at the shifter end, and when they do, you can't shift. The standard 1.2mm diameter fits all modern shift systems. Installation requires basic cable cutting tools, but on trail, you can make it work with a multi-tool. Cheap insurance for remote rides."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012ZEQDE?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Universal compatibility", "Inexpensive backup", "Light and compact", "Easy installation", "Essential repair kit item"]}
  specs="1.2mm stainless steel, 2100mm"
  rating={4}
/>

---

## Common Shifting Problems and Solutions

| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---------|--------------|----------|
| Won't shift to largest cog | Low cable tension, L limit too tight | Increase tension, check L limit |
| Won't shift to smallest cog | High cable tension, H limit too tight | Decrease tension, check H limit |
| Hesitates mid-cassette | Cable tension wrong, cable friction | Adjust tension, inspect cable/housing |
| Skips under power | Worn chain/cassette, bent hanger | Check wear, check hanger alignment |
| Noisy in all gears | Poor indexing, B-tension off | Full adjustment, check B-tension |
| Works fine standing, fails riding | Cable stretch, housing compression | Replace cable and housing |
| Shifts on its own | Cable tension too high, friction | Decrease tension, check for binding |

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## Adjustment Checklist

Before every multi-day trip:

- [ ] Full shift test through all gears
- [ ] Check cable for fraying at anchor and shifter
- [ ] Verify limit screws prevent over-shift
- [ ] Inspect derailleur hanger for bend
- [ ] Check barrel adjuster position (mid-range allows trail adjustment)
- [ ] Verify derailleur bolts tight
- [ ] Test under load (brief climb or sprint)

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## FAQ

**Why does my shifting get worse as the ride goes on?**

Common causes: cable stretch (especially new cables), housing contamination, or cable friction building as cable gets dirty. Fresh cables and sealed housing help.

**Should I adjust cable tension or limit screws first?**

Limit screws first. They establish the range of motion. Then cable tension dials in the indexing. Adjusting in the wrong order creates confusion.

**My derailleur was working fine and suddenly stopped. What happened?**

Sudden changes suggest cable breakage, loose derailleur bolt, or impact damage to hanger. Check the obvious before doing fine adjustments.

**How often should I replace shift cables?**

Preventively, annually or every 3,000-5,000 miles. Reactively, when you notice fraying, stiff shifting that doesn't respond to adjustment, or visible corrosion.

**Can electronic shifting have derailleur problems?**

Different problems—no cable tension issues, but battery, motor, and firmware can fail. Mechanical backup isn't possible. Keep firmware updated and batteries charged.

**What if I can't get it right on trail?**

Sometimes a full adjustment requires a shop. Get it close enough to ride, avoid the gears that don't work, and get proper service when possible. If your derailleur is completely destroyed, our [Emergency Field Repairs Guide](/posts/emergency-field-repairs-bikepacking) covers singlespeed conversion and other creative fixes.

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## Related Guides

- [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide) - Full maintenance overview
- [Chain Maintenance Guide](/posts/bikepacking-chain-maintenance-guide) - Drivetrain partner to shifting
- [Cable Replacement Guide](/posts/shift-cable-brake-cable-replacement) - When cables are the problem
- [Multi-Tool Guide](/posts/the-one-multi-tool-you-need-for-your-next-bikepacking-trip) - Tools for adjustments

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Smooth shifting makes riding feel effortless. Poor shifting makes every pedal stroke a reminder that something's wrong. The adjustments aren't complicated—tension, limits, hanger alignment—and mastering them transforms your riding experience.

Carry a spare hanger. Know your adjustments. Keep your drivetrain shifting sweetly.

The trail rewards preparation.


drivetrain

Bikepacking Chain Maintenance: Cleaning, Lubing, and Trail Repair

Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide: Keep Your Bike Running Anywhere

Derailleur Adjustment and Repair for Bikepacking: Master Your Shifting