
## Stopping Power You Can Trust

<PullQuote>
On a loaded bike descending a remote mountain pass, your brakes are the difference between exhilarating and terrifying. Proper maintenance ensures they're ready when you need them most.
</PullQuote>

Disc brakes transformed bikepacking. Consistent stopping power in wet conditions, minimal rim wear from loaded descents, and reliable performance mile after mile. But that reliability depends on maintenance—and neglected disc brakes fail at the worst possible moments.

This guide covers everything you need to keep your disc brakes working perfectly: pad inspection and replacement, rotor alignment, contamination fixes, and trailside repairs. Master these skills and your brakes will never let you down.

For the complete maintenance picture, see our [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide). For emergency repair essentials, check our [Multi-Tool Guide](/posts/the-one-multi-tool-you-need-for-your-next-bikepacking-trip).

---

## Understanding Your Disc Brakes

Before diving into maintenance, understand what you're working with.

### Brake Types

**Mechanical disc brakes:**
- Cable-actuated (like rim brakes)
- Adjustable without special tools
- Easier field repair
- Common on budget and touring bikes

**Hydraulic disc brakes:**
- Fluid-actuated (sealed system)
- Self-adjusting pad position
- More powerful and consistent
- Requires bleeding for internal work
- Standard on most modern bikes

### Components

- **Lever** - Your control interface
- **Caliper** - Houses pads, creates clamping force
- **Pads** - Friction material that contacts rotor
- **Rotor** - The disc mounted to your hub
- **Pistons** - Push pads against rotor (2 or 4)
- **Cable/hose** - Transmits force from lever to caliper

---

## Pad Inspection and Replacement

Brake pads wear with every stop. On loaded bikes doing long descents, they wear faster. Regular inspection prevents surprises.

### When to Check

- Before every multi-day trip
- Monthly during regular riding
- After wet/gritty conditions
- When braking feels or sounds different
- If you hear metal-on-metal scraping

### What to Look For

<Warning title="Wear Limit">
Replace pads when less than 1mm of friction material remains (not counting backing plate). Note: Shimano specifies 0.5mm minimum, SRAM specifies 3mm total thickness including backing plate. When in doubt, replace early—metal-on-metal contact destroys rotors and eliminates braking.
</Warning>

**Visual inspection:**
1. Look through caliper slot (wheel installed)
2. Shine light to see pad thickness
3. Compare both pads—should wear evenly
4. Check for contamination (shiny, glazed appearance)

**Performance indicators:**
- Lever pulls closer to bar before engagement
- Squealing or grinding sounds
- Reduced stopping power
- Inconsistent braking feel

### Pad Types

**Resin (organic) pads:**
- Quieter operation
- Better modulation (feel)
- Gentler on rotors
- Wear faster, especially when wet
- Best for dry conditions and lighter use

**Metallic (sintered) pads:**
- Better wet performance
- Longer lasting
- More powerful braking
- Noisier, especially when cold
- Can be harsher on rotors
- Best for loaded bikepacking

**Semi-metallic:**
- Middle ground between resin and metallic
- Good all-around choice
- Moderate noise and wear

### Replacing Pads

**What you'll need:**
- New pads (correct model for your caliper)
- Flat blade screwdriver or brake piston tool
- Allen keys (for caliper bolts if needed)
- Isopropyl alcohol and clean rag

**Steps:**
1. **Remove wheel** - Gives access to caliper
2. **Note pad orientation** - Some pads are directional
3. **Remove pad retention** - Bolt, pin, or spring clip depending on caliper
4. **Remove old pads** - Slide out carefully
5. **Push pistons back** - Use flat tool, push evenly on both sides
6. **Clean pistons** - Wipe with isopropyl alcohol if dirty
7. **Insert new pads** - Ensure correct orientation and spring placement
8. **Reinstall retention** - Bolt, pin, or clip
9. **Reinstall wheel** - Check rotor fits between pads
10. **Squeeze lever several times** - Brings pads to rotor contact
11. **Bed in new pads** - See below

### Bedding In New Pads

New pads need to be bedded in for optimal performance:

1. Find a safe area with gradual descent
2. Accelerate to moderate speed (15-20 mph)
3. Apply brakes firmly but don't skid
4. Slow nearly to a stop
5. Release and accelerate again
6. Repeat 15-20 times per brake
7. Allow brakes to cool if they feel hot

Bedding deposits a layer of pad material on the rotor for consistent, powerful braking.

---

## Rotor Alignment and Truing

Rotors can become warped from heat, impacts, or manufacturing defects. Even minor warps cause rubbing and reduced performance.

### Diagnosing Rotor Issues

**Rubbing:**
- Listen for rhythmic scraping when spinning wheel
- Watch gap between pad and rotor as wheel spins
- Mark rotor at rubbing spot with tape

**Warped rotor symptoms:**
- Pulsing brake feel
- Consistent rubbing at one spot per rotation
- Visible wobble when viewing rotor edge-on

### Caliper Alignment (The Easy Fix)

Before truing the rotor, ensure your caliper is centered:

1. Loosen caliper mounting bolts slightly (don't remove)
2. Squeeze brake lever firmly and hold
3. Tighten caliper bolts to spec while holding lever
4. Release lever
5. Spin wheel to check for rubbing

This centers the caliper on the rotor. Most rubbing issues are caliper alignment, not rotor true.

### Rotor Truing (Trail Method)

If caliper alignment doesn't solve rubbing:

**Simple hand method:**
1. Identify where rotor contacts pad (mark with tape)
2. Remove wheel for better access
3. Sight down rotor to identify warp direction
4. Using clean hands or clean rag, carefully bend rotor
5. Apply gentle, gradual pressure opposite the warp
6. Reinstall wheel and check
7. Repeat as needed—work in small increments

<Tip title="Important">
Only touch the rotor's outer edge or center. Contaminating the braking surface with skin oils reduces performance.
</Tip>

**Using rotor truing tool:**
1. Install wheel, identify high spot
2. Place tool around rotor at high spot
3. Apply gentle leverage to bend rotor
4. Check and repeat until true

### Rotor Maintenance

- **Clean rotors regularly** with isopropyl alcohol
- **Never spray lubricants** near brake area
- **Check rotor bolts** periodically (Torx T25 typically)
- **Inspect for wear** - most rotors have minimum thickness markings
- **Replace if cracked, deeply grooved, or below minimum thickness**

---

## Contamination: The Silent Killer

<Warning title="Contamination Warning">
Once brake pads absorb oil or lubricant, they usually can't be recovered. Prevention is everything.
</Warning>

### How Contamination Happens

- Chain lube overspray
- Bike wash products
- Greasy hands touching pads/rotors
- Road spray (oil on wet roads)
- Hydraulic fluid leak

### Signs of Contamination

- Squealing that doesn't go away
- Dramatically reduced braking power
- Grabby, inconsistent feel
- Glazed or shiny pad surface
- Greasy appearance on rotor

### Attempting Recovery

**For rotors:**
1. Clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol
2. Sand lightly with fine sandpaper (400 grit)
3. Clean again with isopropyl alcohol
4. Allow to dry completely

**For pads (often unsuccessful):**
1. Remove pads from caliper
2. Sand braking surface to remove glazing
3. Heat with torch to burn off contamination (if metallic)
4. Soak in isopropyl alcohol
5. Test—if still contaminated, replace

**Reality check:** If braking is significantly compromised after cleaning, replace pads. Your safety isn't worth saving a few dollars.

### Prevention

- **Cover brakes when lubing chain** - Remove wheel or drape rag over caliper
- **Keep hands clean** when working on brakes
- **Use dedicated bike wash** that's brake-safe
- **Store bike with brakes covered** if spraying anything nearby
- **Apply chain lube carefully** - don't overspray

---

## Hydraulic Brake Issues

Hydraulic systems are mostly sealed and self-adjusting, but problems can occur.

### Spongy Lever Feel

**Cause:** Air in the system

**Trail fix options:**
- Usually no field fix available
- Try firmly pumping lever 20-30 times
- Sometimes air works itself out
- Reduce brake use on descents if possible
- Get to a shop for proper bleed

### Brake Fade on Long Descents

**Cause:** Heat buildup in fluid and rotors

**Prevention:**
- Feather brakes rather than dragging constantly
- Alternate between front and rear
- Stop periodically to let brakes cool
- Consider larger rotors for loaded bikepacking

**If fade occurs:**
- Stop and allow cooling (5-10 minutes)
- Don't pour water on hot rotors (thermal shock)
- Consider walking steep descents if fade persists

### Lever Stroke Changing

**Possible causes:**
- Pads wearing down (normal)
- Air in system (needs bleed)
- Leak somewhere (inspect hoses and fittings)

**Trail assessment:**
- If lever firmness is consistent, likely just pad wear
- If lever slowly loses firmness after squeezing, suspect leak
- Inspect hose connections and caliper for fluid

### What You Can't Fix Trailside

- Brake bleeding (requires specific fluid and kit)
- Hose replacement
- Major leaks
- Piston rebuild

For these issues, reduce speed, favor one brake if the other fails, and reach repair facilities. For improvisation techniques when standard repairs aren't possible, see our [Emergency Field Repairs Guide](/posts/emergency-field-repairs-bikepacking).

---

## Mechanical Disc Brake Adjustments

If you have cable-actuated disc brakes, more adjustments are possible trailside:

### Cable Tension Adjustment

**For weak braking or lever close to bar:**
1. Find barrel adjuster (on lever or caliper)
2. Turn counterclockwise to increase tension
3. Test lever feel
4. Adjust until brake engages at desired lever position

### Pad Adjustment

**Many mechanical calipers have:**
- Inner pad adjustment (stationary pad)
- Outer pad moves via cable pull

**Adjustment:**
1. Turn inner pad adjustment knob to move pad closer to rotor
2. Adjust until slight rotor contact, then back off 1/4 turn
3. Cable tension moves outer pad—adjust as above
4. Goal: both pads contact rotor at same lever pull

### Cable Replacement

For complete cable replacement procedures, see our [Cable Replacement Guide](/posts/shift-cable-brake-cable-replacement).

**If cable frays or breaks:**
1. Release cable anchor bolt
2. Pull old cable through housing
3. Thread new cable through housing
4. Anchor at caliper, set appropriate tension
5. Trim excess, crimp end cap

---

## Featured Products

<ProductCard
  name="Shimano B01S Resin Disc Brake Pads"
  pickLabel="Best Budget"
  description="Shimano's B01S pads fit a huge range of their disc calipers, making them the easiest spare to stock. Resin compound provides good modulation and quiet operation in dry conditions. They wear faster than metallic pads in wet/muddy conditions, but at a few dollars per pair, buy several sets. Keep a pair in your repair kit for any trip over a few days. We've run these on everything from commuters to loaded touring bikes—reliable, consistent, and inexpensive."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XHPDWM?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Fits wide range of Shimano calipers", "Quiet operation", "Good feel and modulation", "Inexpensive—stock up", "Easy trailside swap"]}
  specs="Resin compound, includes spring"
  rating={4}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="SwissStop Disc Brake Pads"
  pickLabel="Performance Pick"
  description="When you want the best braking performance available, SwissStop delivers. Their organic compound provides exceptional modulation and power while remaining gentle on rotors. These are the pads professional mechanics recommend when clients ask for an upgrade. Excellent wet weather performance for an organic pad, and remarkably quiet. More expensive than OEM, but the braking feel is noticeably improved. We run these on bikes where braking matters most."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BP2O6AM?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Professional-grade performance", "Excellent modulation", "Quiet operation", "Good wet weather performance", "Long-wearing compound"]}
  specs="Organic compound, various caliper options"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Park Tool DT-2 Rotor Truing Fork"
  pickLabel="Our Pick"
  description="When your rotor rubs and caliper realignment doesn't fix it, the DT-2 trues rotors without removing them from the bike. The gauge identifies high and low spots, then the fork applies precise, controlled bending pressure. Works on rotors from 160-203mm. More consistent than hand-bending and less risky for the rotor. At home, it's the fastest way to eliminate annoying rubs. On tour, the 38g weight might not be worth it, but for home maintenance it's essential."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OZBK02?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["True rotors without removal", "Gauge identifies warp location", "Controlled, precise bending", "Works 160-203mm rotors", "Prevents over-correction"]}
  specs="Hardened steel, 38g"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Muc-Off Disc Brake Cleaner"
  pickLabel="Also Good"
  description="Purpose-formulated for disc brakes, Muc-Off cleaner removes contamination without leaving residue that could affect braking. Safe for all brake components including seals. Spray, wipe, done. We use this after any chain lubrication session and whenever brakes start sounding or feeling off. Not a guaranteed contamination fix, but the best cleaning option we've found. Evaporates clean without the strong odor of pure isopropyl alcohol."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRGQJWW?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Formula designed for brakes", "Safe for seals and pads", "Leaves no residue", "Quick-drying", "Removes oil and contaminants"]}
  specs="400ml aerosol"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="99% Isopropyl Alcohol"
  pickLabel="Budget Pick"
  description="The simplest brake cleaning solution. Isopropyl alcohol dissolves oils and evaporates completely with no residue. Apply to clean rag and wipe rotors and pads. Every home shop should have a bottle, and a small travel bottle in your repair kit weighs almost nothing. Not as convenient as aerosol, but cheaper and equally effective. We use this for routine cleaning and save the specialty cleaners for major contamination."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Dissolves brake contamination", "Evaporates with no residue", "Extremely affordable", "Multi-use (first aid, cleaning)", "Available everywhere"]}
  specs="99% concentration, 16 oz"
  rating={4}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Jagwire Pro Quick-Fit Kit"
  pickLabel="Mechanical Brake Kit"
  description="For mechanical disc brake systems, the Jagwire kit provides everything for cable replacement: pre-stretched cables, low-compression housing, and all necessary hardware. The slick-coated cables run smoother and last longer than OEM. Perfect for pre-trip cable replacement or emergency repair. The kit includes both shift and brake cables, making it a comprehensive solution. Housing cutters sold separately but essential for clean cuts."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UEUPRE?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Complete cable set", "Pre-stretched cables", "Low-compression housing", "All end caps included", "Works for brakes and shifting"]}
  specs="Brake and shift cables, housing, hardware"
  rating={5}
/>

---

## Brake Maintenance Schedule

| Interval | Action |
|----------|--------|
| **Every ride** | Lever feel check, listen for rubbing |
| **Weekly** | Visual pad thickness check |
| **Monthly** | Rotor cleaning, bolt torque check |
| **Before multi-day trips** | Full inspection, fresh pads if marginal |
| **Annually** | Hydraulic bleed, cable replacement (mechanical), rotor inspection |
| **As needed** | Pad replacement, contamination response |

---

## FAQ

**How long do brake pads last?**

Highly variable based on conditions, riding style, and pad compound. Loaded bikepacking with frequent descents might use a set in 500-1000 miles. Lighter use might see 2000+ miles. Check visually rather than relying on mileage.

**Can I mix pad types?**

Generally yes, but don't mix pads within the same caliper (front or rear should match). You can run different compounds front vs. rear. Some riders prefer metallic front (more power) and resin rear (better modulation).

**Why are my brakes squealing?**

Common causes: contamination, glazed pads, misaligned caliper, worn pads. Start with cleaning and realignment. If squealing persists with clean, properly aligned brakes, consider new pads.

**Do larger rotors make a difference?**

Yes. Larger rotors provide more leverage (stopping power) and better heat dissipation. For loaded bikepacking, 180mm is minimum; 200-203mm front is even better. The weight penalty is minimal compared to the performance gain.

**How do I know if my rotors are worn?**

Most rotors have minimum thickness stamped on them (often 1.5mm). Measure with calipers or feel for deep grooves. If rotors are significantly worn, replace before they fail catastrophically.

**Can I bleed hydraulic brakes myself?**

Yes, with the proper kit (bleed syringe, correct fluid for your system). However, it requires specific technique and the right fluid (DOT fluid or mineral oil depending on brand—never mix). Most bikepackers have shops do this work.

---

## Related Guides

- [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide) - Full maintenance overview
- [Emergency Gear Guide](/posts/emergency-gear-every-bikepacker) - What to carry for emergencies
- [Multi-Tool Guide](/posts/the-one-multi-tool-you-need-for-your-next-bikepacking-trip) - Essential tools
- [Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist](/posts/pre-trip-bike-inspection-checklist) - Full inspection walkthrough

---

Your brakes are your ultimate safety system. On loaded descents in remote areas, they're the margin between controlled adventure and uncontrolled emergency.

Inspect regularly. Maintain proactively. Carry spares for extended trips.

Trust your brakes, and they'll bring you home safely.


Disc Brake Maintenance for Bikepacking: Pads, Rotors, and Trail Fixes

Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide: Keep Your Bike Running Anywhere


## The Hidden Weak Link

<PullQuote>
Cables work invisibly until they fail. A frayed shift cable means no shifting. A broken brake cable means reduced stopping power. Regular inspection and timely replacement prevent unpleasant surprises.
</PullQuote>

Inside your housing, thin steel wires transmit every shift command and braking input. They flex thousands of times per ride, resist corrosion from weather, and eventually wear out. Unlike a squeaky chain or a rubbing brake, cable wear is invisible until something goes wrong.

For mechanical brake and derailleur systems, cables are critical components. This guide covers inspection, replacement timing, and carrying spares for remote bikepacking. Master cable maintenance and you'll never be stranded by a simple wire failure.

For the complete maintenance picture, see our [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide). For derailleur-specific issues, check our [Derailleur Adjustment Guide](/posts/derailleur-adjustment-repair-bikepacking).

---

## Anatomy of Cable Systems

Understanding the components helps you diagnose and fix problems.

### Inner Cable

The steel wire that transmits force:
- **Head/nipple:** Barrel or pear-shaped end that anchors in shifter or brake lever
- **Wire strands:** Multiple thin wires twisted together
- **Anchor point:** Where cable attaches to derailleur or brake

**Materials:**
- Stainless steel: Corrosion resistant, standard choice
- Galvanized steel: Cheaper, rusts faster
- Coated: Teflon or similar coating reduces friction

### Housing

The outer sleeve that guides the cable:
- **Shift housing:** Linear (straight) wires inside, resists compression
- **Brake housing:** Coiled (spiral) wire inside, handles higher loads
- **Liner:** Plastic inner tube for reduced friction

<Warning title="Don't Interchange">
Shift housing and brake housing are NOT interchangeable. Shift housing under braking loads can collapse. Always use the correct type.
</Warning>

### Hardware

- **Ferrules:** Metal caps on housing ends
- **End caps:** Crimp-on caps preventing cable fray
- **Cable stops:** Frame bosses where housing terminates

---

## Inspection: When Cables Need Attention

### Visual Signs

**At the anchor bolt (derailleur/brake):**
- Frayed strands spreading outward
- Kinked or bent cable
- Corrosion or rust discoloration

**At the shifter/lever head:**
- Frayed strands at nipple
- Corrosion in head area
- Worn nipple edges

**Housing:**
- Cracked or split outer jacket
- Kinked sections that don't straighten
- Visible rust at cut ends
- Loose or missing ferrules

### Performance Signs

**Shift cable problems:**
- Shifting feels sluggish or stiff
- Delayed shifts even with proper tension
- Shifts improve when cable is manually pushed
- Inconsistent indexing

**Brake cable problems:**
- Lever feels spongy or soft
- More lever travel needed for braking
- Lever doesn't return fully
- Braking power decreasing

### High-Wear Points

Check these areas carefully:

| Location | What Happens | Signs |
|----------|--------------|-------|
| Anchor bolt | Cable is clamped, crushed | Frayed strands, flattened profile |
| Sharp housing bends | Friction wear at curves | Stiff feel, visible wear through housing |
| Under bottom bracket | Exposure to grit and water | Corrosion, contaminated housing |
| Shifter/lever entry | Repeated flexing | Frayed strands at nipple |

---

## When to Replace

### Preventive Replacement

**Annually or every 3,000-5,000 miles:**
- Fresh cables ensure reliable shifting and braking
- Eliminates concern about unseen wear
- Good pre-trip maintenance

**Before major expeditions:**
- Remote routes demand reliability
- No bike shops means self-sufficiency
- Peace of mind worth the cost

### Reactive Replacement

**Replace immediately if:**
- Any visible fraying
- Strand breakage (even one)
- Significant corrosion
- Kinks that won't straighten
- Sluggish feel that doesn't respond to lubrication

### When Housing Needs Replacement

**Replace housing when:**
- Cut ends are corroded or contaminated
- Outer jacket is cracked or split
- Kinked beyond straightening
- Significant resistance when pulling new cable through
- Ferrules are damaged or missing

---

## Replacement Procedure

### What You'll Need

- New cables (correct type for shifter/brake lever)
- Housing (shift or brake as appropriate)
- Cable cutters (proper tool makes clean cuts)
- Ferrules and end caps
- Allen keys for anchor bolts
- Wire cutters or end cap crimping tool

### Shift Cable Replacement

**Removal:**
1. Shift to smallest cog/ring (releases cable tension)
2. Loosen anchor bolt on derailleur
3. Pull cable free from derailleur
4. Push cable through housing toward shifter
5. Remove cable from shifter (access varies by model)

**Installation:**
1. Thread new cable through shifter mechanism
2. Route through housing sections
3. Ensure ferrules are seated in all cable stops
4. Thread through derailleur anchor
5. Set cable tension with barrel adjuster at mid-range
6. Pull cable taut, tighten anchor bolt
7. Test shifting through full range
8. Fine-tune cable tension
9. Trim excess cable (leave 2-3 inches)
10. Crimp end cap

### Brake Cable Replacement

**Removal:**
1. Release brake quick-release if available
2. Loosen cable anchor at brake caliper
3. Pull cable free
4. Push cable through housing toward lever
5. Remove from brake lever

**Installation:**
1. Thread cable through lever (barrel nipple usually)
2. Route through housing
3. Thread through caliper anchor
4. Set cable tension (brake pads should contact rim/rotor with moderate lever pull)
5. Tighten anchor bolt
6. Test braking feel
7. Adjust as needed
8. Trim and cap cable

### Tips for Clean Cuts

<Tip title="Cutting Technique">
Use proper cable cutters, not wire snips or pliers. Proper cutters make clean cuts that don't fray cables or crush housing. This is worth the tool investment.
</Tip>

**For housing:**
1. Cut with sharp, quality cutters
2. Inspect cut end—should be round, not crushed
3. Use awl or pick to clear liner if needed
4. Install ferrule immediately

**For cable:**
1. Cut at 45-degree angle
2. Clean cut prevents fraying
3. Crimp end cap immediately
4. Apply drop of superglue to end if desired

---

## Carrying Spares for Bikepacking

### What to Carry

**Minimum (weekend trips):**
- One shift cable (inner wire only)
- One brake cable (inner wire only)
- A few ferrules and end caps

**Extended trips:**
- Two shift cables
- Two brake cables
- Short sections of housing (6-12 inches each type)
- Spare ferrules and end caps
- Small lube bottle

### Why Carry Cables

**Cables fail in several ways:**
- Fray at anchor bolt (most common)
- Break at shifter head
- Corrosion from water exposure
- Kink from crash or impact

Without spare cables, a failure means:
- No shifting (walk or single-speed)
- Reduced braking (one brake only)
- Potential for dangerous situations

### Trail Cable Replacement

When proper cable replacement isn't possible, see our [Emergency Field Repairs Guide](/posts/emergency-field-repairs-bikepacking) for creative improvisation techniques.

**Challenges:**
- Limited tools
- Limited time
- No ideal conditions

**Realistic expectations:**
- Full cable/housing replacement difficult on trail
- Inner cable replacement is achievable
- Focus on getting functional, not perfect

**Trail process:**
1. Use existing housing if possible
2. Thread new inner cable through
3. Approximate tension settings
4. Fine-tune later when conditions allow

---

## Featured Products

<ProductCard
  name="Jagwire Pro Cable Kit"
  pickLabel="Our Pick"
  description="The complete replacement solution for both shifting and braking. Jagwire Pro kits include pre-stretched stainless cables that resist cable stretch, sealed compressionless housing that maintains crisp feel, and all the ferrules, end caps, and hardware for a full replacement. The sealed housing is especially valuable for bikepacking—it keeps water and grit out far better than open-coil housing. One kit services both front and rear brakes plus both derailleurs. Fresh cables with quality housing transforms shifting and braking feel."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UEUPRE?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Pre-stretched cables", "Sealed housing", "All hardware included", "Shift and brake cables", "Professional quality"]}
  specs="Complete shift and brake kit"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Shimano Stainless Steel Shift Cable"
  pickLabel="Budget Spare"
  description="Basic Shimano shift cables work with any mechanical derailleur and cost very little. Keep one or two in your repair kit as emergency spares. The standard 1.2mm diameter fits all modern shift systems, and the universal head design works with most shifters. Installation on trail requires minimal tools—just a way to cut cable and tension adjustment. These are the cables that have saved countless trips when primary cables failed unexpectedly."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012ZEQDE?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Universal compatibility", "Inexpensive enough to stock", "Standard 1.2mm diameter", "Stainless steel construction", "Essential repair kit item"]}
  specs="1.2mm x 2100mm, stainless steel"
  rating={4}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Shimano Stainless Steel Brake Cable"
  pickLabel="Budget Spare"
  description="Like the shift cable above, Shimano's basic brake cables provide reliable backup at minimal cost. The 1.6mm diameter handles braking loads, and the universal barrel head fits most brake levers. Brake cable failure is less common than shift cable failure, but when it happens, the consequences are more serious. Carry one as insurance—it weighs almost nothing and fits in any repair kit."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G7QFKG?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Universal barrel head", "1.6mm for brake loads", "Stainless steel", "Lightweight backup", "Fits most brake levers"]}
  specs="1.6mm x 2050mm, stainless steel"
  rating={4}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Park Tool CN-10 Cable Cutter"
  pickLabel="Essential Tool"
  description="Proper cable work requires proper cutters. The CN-10 makes clean cuts through both cable and housing without crushing or fraying. The compound leverage design provides enough force to cut shift and brake housing cleanly. The built-in crimper handles end caps and ferrules. If you're doing your own cable work—at home or on extended trips—this tool is essential. Cheap side cutters work once; the CN-10 works correctly every time."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OZBM2G?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Clean cuts without fraying", "Works on cable and housing", "Built-in crimper", "Professional quality", "Essential for cable work"]}
  specs="Hardened steel, compound leverage"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Jagwire Cable End Crimps"
  pickLabel="Stock Up"
  description="Every cable end needs a crimp to prevent fraying. These Jagwire crimps are aluminum, fit standard cable sizes, and come in bulk packs. Keep extras in your repair kit—you'll use them eventually. Clean crimps look professional and protect cable ends from unraveling. A bag of 100 lasts most home mechanics years. Match the size to your cables: 1.2mm for shift, 1.6mm for brake."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WYCC4Q?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Bulk pack for value", "Aluminum construction", "Standard sizes", "Essential finishing hardware", "Stock up and forget"]}
  specs="Aluminum, 100 count"
  rating={4}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Shimano Cable Housing"
  pickLabel="Housing Spare"
  description="If you need to replace housing sections, Shimano's standard housing works with any mechanical system. Available in shift (linear) and brake (coiled) versions—don't interchange them. Cutting housing requires proper tools and technique, but carrying a 12-inch section of each type provides emergency repair capability. Pre-cut with ferrules installed before your trip for easier trail repair."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C147OI?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Standard compatibility", "Shift and brake versions", "Quality construction", "Available everywhere", "Carry pre-cut sections"]}
  specs="5mm diameter, various lengths"
  rating={4}
/>

---

## Cable Maintenance

### Extending Cable Life

**Lubrication:**
- Light oil on inner cables periodically
- Don't over-lubricate (attracts dirt)
- Focus on housing entry points

**Protection:**
- Use ferrules on all housing ends
- End caps on all cable ends
- Avoid tight bends in routing

**Inspection:**
- Check anchor points regularly
- Look for fraying at high-wear points
- Replace at first sign of problems

### Storage

**For bikes in storage:**
- Shift to slack position (small cog, small ring)
- Release brake quick-release if equipped
- Reduces cable tension during storage

**For spare cables:**
- Keep straight—avoid tight coils
- Store in dry location
- Check before packing for trips

---

## Troubleshooting

| Symptom | Possible Cause | Solution |
|---------|----------------|----------|
| Stiff shifting | Housing friction, cable fraying | Lubricate or replace |
| Spongy brake lever | Cable stretch, anchor slip | Retension or replace |
| Clicking at shifter | Frayed cable at nipple | Replace cable |
| Cable won't seat | Wrong nipple type | Check compatibility |
| Quick corrosion | Low-quality cable | Use stainless steel |
| Housing splits | Age, UV damage | Replace housing |

---

## FAQ

**How do I know if it's a cable problem or derailleur problem?**

Disconnect the cable from the derailleur. Does the derailleur spring back properly? If yes, the problem is cable-related. If the derailleur is stiff or doesn't return, the problem is in the derailleur mechanism.

**Can I use brake cable for shifting?**

No. Brake cables are thicker (1.6mm vs 1.2mm) and won't fit through shift system. The nipple shapes also differ. Use the correct cable type.

**My new cables stretch quickly. Is this normal?**

New cables stretch slightly as they seat. Pre-stretched cables minimize this. Expect to adjust tension after the first few rides with new cables, then they should stabilize.

**Can I lubricate cables to extend life?**

Light lubrication helps, but contaminated housing eventually needs replacement. Lube delays but doesn't prevent wear. If lubing doesn't restore smooth feel, replace the system.

**Are coated cables worth the extra cost?**

PTFE-coated cables run smoother and resist corrosion better than bare stainless. For bikepacking in varied weather, the extra durability is worth the modest price increase.

**What about hydraulic brakes?**

Hydraulic systems don't use cables—they use fluid in sealed hoses. This guide applies to mechanical (cable-actuated) systems only.

---

## Related Guides

- [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide) - Full maintenance overview
- [Derailleur Adjustment Guide](/posts/derailleur-adjustment-repair-bikepacking) - When cables are fine but shifting isn't
- [Disc Brake Maintenance](/posts/bikepacking-disc-brake-maintenance) - Brake-specific care
- [Multi-Tool Guide](/posts/the-one-multi-tool-you-need-for-your-next-bikepacking-trip) - Tools for cable work

---

Cables are cheap. The work they do is critical. Regular inspection, timely replacement, and carrying spares ensure that this simple component never ends your trip.

Check your cables. Carry backups. Ride with confidence.


brakes

Disc Brake Maintenance for Bikepacking: Pads, Rotors, and Trail Fixes

Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide: Keep Your Bike Running Anywhere

Shift Cable and Brake Cable Replacement for Bikepacking