
## When Shifting Goes Wrong

<PullQuote>
Poor shifting on a loaded bike grinding up a steep climb isn't just frustrating—it's exhausting. Every missed shift wastes energy. Understanding derailleur adjustment means riding efficiently, not fighting your bike.
</PullQuote>

Your derailleur is a precision instrument that positions your chain across different-sized cogs with millimeter accuracy. When it works, you don't think about it. When it doesn't, every shift reminds you something's wrong.

The good news: most shifting problems have simple causes and simple fixes. Cable tension, limit screws, and hanger alignment account for 95% of shifting issues. Master these adjustments and you'll fix most problems on trail without special tools.

For the complete maintenance picture, see our [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide). For related repairs, check our [Cable Replacement Guide](/posts/shift-cable-brake-cable-replacement).

---

## How Derailleurs Work

Before adjusting, understand what you're adjusting.

### Rear Derailleur Basics

**Cable tension:**
- Pulls the derailleur inward (toward larger cogs)
- Spring pushes outward (toward smaller cogs)
- Balance determines chain position

**Limit screws:**
- H (High) screw limits outward travel (prevents chain overshooting small cog)
- L (Low) screw limits inward travel (prevents chain going into spokes)
- Don't affect middle gears—only endpoints

**B-tension (body angle):**
- Adjusts derailleur cage distance from cassette
- Affects shifting quality, especially in largest cogs
- Usually set once and forgotten

**Indexing:**
- The click-stops in your shifter
- Must align with cog positions
- Controlled by cable tension

### Front Derailleur Basics

Less common on modern bikepacking bikes (1x drivetrains dominate), but similar principles:
- Cable tension moves cage inward
- Spring pushes cage outward
- Limit screws prevent chain from falling off chainrings
- Cage height and angle affect shifting quality

---

## Cable Tension Adjustment

90% of shifting problems are cable tension issues.

### Symptoms of Wrong Tension

**Too little tension:**
- Chain hesitates shifting to larger cogs
- Multiple clicks needed for upshifts
- Chain falls off the smallest cog under load

**Too much tension:**
- Chain overshifts, jumping past intended cog
- Chain hesitates shifting to smaller cogs
- Chain rubs in certain gear combinations

### Making Adjustments

<Tip title="Quarter Turns">
Barrel adjusters are sensitive. Turn in ¼-turn increments, test, then adjust again. It's easy to overshoot.
</Tip>

**Location of barrel adjusters:**
- Rear derailleur body
- Shifter (often inline on cable)
- Cable stops on frame

**To increase tension (shift to larger cogs easier):**
- Turn barrel adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from behind)
- This effectively lengthens the cable housing, increasing cable tension

**To decrease tension (shift to smaller cogs easier):**
- Turn barrel adjuster clockwise
- This shortens the cable housing, decreasing tension

### The Adjustment Process

1. Shift to smallest cog (rear) or smallest ring (front)
2. Note how the chain responds to one shift click
3. Does it move immediately to the next cog?
4. Does it hesitate or require multiple clicks?
5. Does it overshoot to the second cog?
6. Adjust barrel by ¼ turn based on symptoms
7. Repeat until shifts are crisp

### Testing Your Adjustment

After adjusting:
1. Shift through full range slowly
2. Shift through full range quickly
3. Shift under mild pedaling load
4. Check both directions (up and down cassette)
5. Any hesitation means further adjustment needed

---

## Limit Screw Adjustment

Limit screws are safety devices that prevent catastrophic chain placement.

### H Limit (High Gear)

Controls outward travel—prevents chain from overshooting the smallest cog and landing on the dropout.

**Checking H limit:**
1. Shift to smallest cog
2. Look from behind: derailleur pulley should align directly under smallest cog
3. If pulley is too far outward, chain can fall off
4. If pulley is too far inward, shifting to smallest cog may be sluggish

**Adjusting H limit:**
- Clockwise = moves derailleur inward (restricts outward travel)
- Counterclockwise = allows more outward movement
- Adjust so pulley sits directly under smallest cog

### L Limit (Low Gear)

Controls inward travel—prevents chain from overshooting the largest cog and hitting the spokes.

<Warning title="Spoke Danger">
Incorrect L limit can allow the chain to shift into your spokes. This can destroy the wheel, derailleur, and potentially cause a crash. Always verify L limit is properly set.
</Warning>

**Checking L limit:**
1. Shift to largest cog
2. Look from behind: pulley should align under largest cog
3. Try pushing derailleur inward by hand—it should not move past the largest cog
4. If it moves too far, chain can hit spokes

**Adjusting L limit:**
- Clockwise = restricts inward travel (more spoke protection)
- Counterclockwise = allows more inward movement
- Err on the side of caution—slightly restrict rather than allow

### When Limits Need Adjustment

**After:**
- Replacing cable (tension changes may reveal incorrect limits)
- Bending derailleur hanger (geometry changed)
- Installing new cassette (especially different size range)
- New derailleur installation

**Symptoms:**
- Chain falls off smallest cog = H limit too loose
- Chain won't reach smallest cog = H limit too tight
- Chain hits spokes or shifts past largest cog = L limit too loose
- Chain won't reach largest cog = L limit too tight

---

## Indexing and Fine-Tuning

With cable tension and limits correct, dial in the indexing.

### The Indexing Test

1. Shift to middle of cassette
2. Make one click on shifter
3. Chain should move precisely one cog
4. No hesitation, no overshoot
5. Both directions should feel the same

### Troubleshooting Indexing

**Slow upshifts (to larger cogs):**
- Increase cable tension (counterclockwise on barrel)
- Check for cable friction (housing damage, contamination)

**Slow downshifts (to smaller cogs):**
- Decrease cable tension (clockwise on barrel)
- Check for derailleur spring weakness

**Works fine cold, gets worse when hot:**
- Cable housing may be contaminated
- Consider replacement

**Works in stand, fails under load:**
- Often indicates cable stretch or housing compression
- May need cable/housing replacement

---

## Bent Derailleur Hanger

The derailleur hanger is designed to bend in a crash—protecting your frame. But a bent hanger ruins shifting.

### Signs of Bent Hanger

- Shifting works well in some gears, poorly in others
- Chain skip in certain cogs only
- Derailleur doesn't hang straight (viewed from behind)
- Gap between cassette and pulley varies as you shift

### Checking Hanger Alignment

**Visual check:**
1. Look at bike from directly behind
2. Derailleur cage should hang vertically
3. Compare to another bike if unsure
4. Even small bends are visible to a trained eye

**The measurement method:**
1. Remove rear wheel
2. Use a long ruler or straight stick
3. Hold against derailleur mount and hanger
4. Check for gaps indicating bend

### Trail Fixes

<Warning title="Proceed Carefully">
Bending a hanger carries risk of breaking it. Work slowly with gradual pressure. If hanger is severely bent, carrying a spare is a better solution.
</Warning>

**Gentle straightening:**
1. Shift chain to smallest cog
2. Remove wheel for access
3. Place adjustable wrench on hanger body (not derailleur)
4. Apply gentle, controlled pressure opposite the bend direction
5. Check alignment
6. Work in small increments

**Alternative: adjustable wrench on derailleur:**
1. For minor bends only
2. Grip derailleur cage with adjustable wrench
3. Use derailleur as lever to bend hanger
4. Risk: can stress derailleur itself

**Limitations:**
- Aluminum hangers work-harden—repeated bending weakens them
- Severely bent hangers may break
- Trail straightening is temporary—replace at next opportunity

### Carrying a Spare Hanger

**Why carry one:**
- Hangers are frame-specific
- They're designed to be sacrificial
- They're small and light
- Impossible to fabricate on trail

**Finding your hanger:**
- Check manufacturer website
- Many bikes use standard aftermarket hangers (Wheels Manufacturing)
- Order exact replacement before remote trips

---

## Featured Products

<ProductCard
  name="Wheels Manufacturing Derailleur Hanger"
  pickLabel="Essential Spare"
  description="Wheels Manufacturing makes replacement hangers for virtually every bike made in the last 20 years. Their catalog is extensive and their quality matches or exceeds OEM parts. Find your bike's model, order the correct part number, and carry it on every trip. At typically under $30 and weighing just a few grams, there's no excuse not to have this critical spare. We've seen trips saved by a spare hanger; we've seen trips ended without one. Get one before you need it."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GNDO0E?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Covers virtually all bike models", "Matches or exceeds OEM quality", "Light and compact", "Essential for remote rides", "Check their catalog for exact model"]}
  specs="CNC aluminum, model-specific"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Park Tool DAG-2.2 Derailleur Alignment Gauge"
  pickLabel="Professional Tool"
  description="For precise hanger alignment, nothing beats the DAG-2.2. The tool mounts to the hanger and provides multiple measurement points to identify exactly how and how much the hanger is bent. Then it serves as the straightening tool for precise correction. This is what professional shops use. For home mechanics who service multiple bikes, it pays for itself quickly. Too specialized for trail carry, but essential for proper repair at home. Your shifting will never be better than your hanger alignment."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LWGBQ6?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Professional-grade accuracy", "Measure and straighten with one tool", "Works on all derailleur hangers", "Essential home shop tool", "What bike shops use"]}
  specs="Steel construction, universal fit"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Jagwire Pro Shift Cable Kit"
  pickLabel="Best Cable Set"
  description="When cables stretch, fray, or housing compresses, shifting suffers no matter how well your derailleur is adjusted. The Jagwire Pro kit includes pre-stretched Slick Stainless cables, sealed cable housing, and all necessary end caps and ferrules for a complete replacement. The sealed housing resists contamination far better than open coil housing. For bikepackers doing pre-trip preparation, fresh cables eliminate one more potential failure point. Includes both shift and brake cables."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UEUPRE?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Pre-stretched cables", "Sealed housing", "All hardware included", "Professional quality", "Complete replacement kit"]}
  specs="Shift and brake cables, sealed housing"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Park Tool CN-10 Cable and Housing Cutter"
  pickLabel="Essential Tool"
  description="Proper cable cuts require proper tools. The CN-10 makes clean, square cuts through both cable and housing without crushing the housing interior. Crushed housing creates friction that ruins shifting feel. The built-in crimper handles cable end caps and ferrules. If you're replacing cables yourself, this tool is non-negotiable. Cheap side-cutters work once; the CN-10 works thousands of times. Every home shop needs one."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OZBM2G?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Clean cuts without crushing", "Built-in crimper", "Works on cable and housing", "Professional quality", "Essential for cable work"]}
  specs="Hardened steel jaws, crimping function"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Shimano Shift Cable"
  pickLabel="Spare for Kit"
  description="Shimano's basic shift cables work with any derailleur system and cost very little. Keep a spare in your repair kit—shift cables can fray at the anchor bolt or break at the shifter end, and when they do, you can't shift. The standard 1.2mm diameter fits all modern shift systems. Installation requires basic cable cutting tools, but on trail, you can make it work with a multi-tool. Cheap insurance for remote rides."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012ZEQDE?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Universal compatibility", "Inexpensive backup", "Light and compact", "Easy installation", "Essential repair kit item"]}
  specs="1.2mm stainless steel, 2100mm"
  rating={4}
/>

---

## Common Shifting Problems and Solutions

| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---------|--------------|----------|
| Won't shift to largest cog | Low cable tension, L limit too tight | Increase tension, check L limit |
| Won't shift to smallest cog | High cable tension, H limit too tight | Decrease tension, check H limit |
| Hesitates mid-cassette | Cable tension wrong, cable friction | Adjust tension, inspect cable/housing |
| Skips under power | Worn chain/cassette, bent hanger | Check wear, check hanger alignment |
| Noisy in all gears | Poor indexing, B-tension off | Full adjustment, check B-tension |
| Works fine standing, fails riding | Cable stretch, housing compression | Replace cable and housing |
| Shifts on its own | Cable tension too high, friction | Decrease tension, check for binding |

---

## Adjustment Checklist

Before every multi-day trip:

- [ ] Full shift test through all gears
- [ ] Check cable for fraying at anchor and shifter
- [ ] Verify limit screws prevent over-shift
- [ ] Inspect derailleur hanger for bend
- [ ] Check barrel adjuster position (mid-range allows trail adjustment)
- [ ] Verify derailleur bolts tight
- [ ] Test under load (brief climb or sprint)

---

## FAQ

**Why does my shifting get worse as the ride goes on?**

Common causes: cable stretch (especially new cables), housing contamination, or cable friction building as cable gets dirty. Fresh cables and sealed housing help.

**Should I adjust cable tension or limit screws first?**

Limit screws first. They establish the range of motion. Then cable tension dials in the indexing. Adjusting in the wrong order creates confusion.

**My derailleur was working fine and suddenly stopped. What happened?**

Sudden changes suggest cable breakage, loose derailleur bolt, or impact damage to hanger. Check the obvious before doing fine adjustments.

**How often should I replace shift cables?**

Preventively, annually or every 3,000-5,000 miles. Reactively, when you notice fraying, stiff shifting that doesn't respond to adjustment, or visible corrosion.

**Can electronic shifting have derailleur problems?**

Different problems—no cable tension issues, but battery, motor, and firmware can fail. Mechanical backup isn't possible. Keep firmware updated and batteries charged.

**What if I can't get it right on trail?**

Sometimes a full adjustment requires a shop. Get it close enough to ride, avoid the gears that don't work, and get proper service when possible. If your derailleur is completely destroyed, our [Emergency Field Repairs Guide](/posts/emergency-field-repairs-bikepacking) covers singlespeed conversion and other creative fixes.

---

## Related Guides

- [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide) - Full maintenance overview
- [Chain Maintenance Guide](/posts/bikepacking-chain-maintenance-guide) - Drivetrain partner to shifting
- [Cable Replacement Guide](/posts/shift-cable-brake-cable-replacement) - When cables are the problem
- [Multi-Tool Guide](/posts/the-one-multi-tool-you-need-for-your-next-bikepacking-trip) - Tools for adjustments

---

Smooth shifting makes riding feel effortless. Poor shifting makes every pedal stroke a reminder that something's wrong. The adjustments aren't complicated—tension, limits, hanger alignment—and mastering them transforms your riding experience.

Carry a spare hanger. Know your adjustments. Keep your drivetrain shifting sweetly.

The trail rewards preparation.


Derailleur Adjustment and Repair for Bikepacking: Master Your Shifting


## The Hidden Weak Link

<PullQuote>
Cables work invisibly until they fail. A frayed shift cable means no shifting. A broken brake cable means reduced stopping power. Regular inspection and timely replacement prevent unpleasant surprises.
</PullQuote>

Inside your housing, thin steel wires transmit every shift command and braking input. They flex thousands of times per ride, resist corrosion from weather, and eventually wear out. Unlike a squeaky chain or a rubbing brake, cable wear is invisible until something goes wrong.

For mechanical brake and derailleur systems, cables are critical components. This guide covers inspection, replacement timing, and carrying spares for remote bikepacking. Master cable maintenance and you'll never be stranded by a simple wire failure.

For the complete maintenance picture, see our [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide). For derailleur-specific issues, check our [Derailleur Adjustment Guide](/posts/derailleur-adjustment-repair-bikepacking).

---

## Anatomy of Cable Systems

Understanding the components helps you diagnose and fix problems.

### Inner Cable

The steel wire that transmits force:
- **Head/nipple:** Barrel or pear-shaped end that anchors in shifter or brake lever
- **Wire strands:** Multiple thin wires twisted together
- **Anchor point:** Where cable attaches to derailleur or brake

**Materials:**
- Stainless steel: Corrosion resistant, standard choice
- Galvanized steel: Cheaper, rusts faster
- Coated: Teflon or similar coating reduces friction

### Housing

The outer sleeve that guides the cable:
- **Shift housing:** Linear (straight) wires inside, resists compression
- **Brake housing:** Coiled (spiral) wire inside, handles higher loads
- **Liner:** Plastic inner tube for reduced friction

<Warning title="Don't Interchange">
Shift housing and brake housing are NOT interchangeable. Shift housing under braking loads can collapse. Always use the correct type.
</Warning>

### Hardware

- **Ferrules:** Metal caps on housing ends
- **End caps:** Crimp-on caps preventing cable fray
- **Cable stops:** Frame bosses where housing terminates

---

## Inspection: When Cables Need Attention

### Visual Signs

**At the anchor bolt (derailleur/brake):**
- Frayed strands spreading outward
- Kinked or bent cable
- Corrosion or rust discoloration

**At the shifter/lever head:**
- Frayed strands at nipple
- Corrosion in head area
- Worn nipple edges

**Housing:**
- Cracked or split outer jacket
- Kinked sections that don't straighten
- Visible rust at cut ends
- Loose or missing ferrules

### Performance Signs

**Shift cable problems:**
- Shifting feels sluggish or stiff
- Delayed shifts even with proper tension
- Shifts improve when cable is manually pushed
- Inconsistent indexing

**Brake cable problems:**
- Lever feels spongy or soft
- More lever travel needed for braking
- Lever doesn't return fully
- Braking power decreasing

### High-Wear Points

Check these areas carefully:

| Location | What Happens | Signs |
|----------|--------------|-------|
| Anchor bolt | Cable is clamped, crushed | Frayed strands, flattened profile |
| Sharp housing bends | Friction wear at curves | Stiff feel, visible wear through housing |
| Under bottom bracket | Exposure to grit and water | Corrosion, contaminated housing |
| Shifter/lever entry | Repeated flexing | Frayed strands at nipple |

---

## When to Replace

### Preventive Replacement

**Annually or every 3,000-5,000 miles:**
- Fresh cables ensure reliable shifting and braking
- Eliminates concern about unseen wear
- Good pre-trip maintenance

**Before major expeditions:**
- Remote routes demand reliability
- No bike shops means self-sufficiency
- Peace of mind worth the cost

### Reactive Replacement

**Replace immediately if:**
- Any visible fraying
- Strand breakage (even one)
- Significant corrosion
- Kinks that won't straighten
- Sluggish feel that doesn't respond to lubrication

### When Housing Needs Replacement

**Replace housing when:**
- Cut ends are corroded or contaminated
- Outer jacket is cracked or split
- Kinked beyond straightening
- Significant resistance when pulling new cable through
- Ferrules are damaged or missing

---

## Replacement Procedure

### What You'll Need

- New cables (correct type for shifter/brake lever)
- Housing (shift or brake as appropriate)
- Cable cutters (proper tool makes clean cuts)
- Ferrules and end caps
- Allen keys for anchor bolts
- Wire cutters or end cap crimping tool

### Shift Cable Replacement

**Removal:**
1. Shift to smallest cog/ring (releases cable tension)
2. Loosen anchor bolt on derailleur
3. Pull cable free from derailleur
4. Push cable through housing toward shifter
5. Remove cable from shifter (access varies by model)

**Installation:**
1. Thread new cable through shifter mechanism
2. Route through housing sections
3. Ensure ferrules are seated in all cable stops
4. Thread through derailleur anchor
5. Set cable tension with barrel adjuster at mid-range
6. Pull cable taut, tighten anchor bolt
7. Test shifting through full range
8. Fine-tune cable tension
9. Trim excess cable (leave 2-3 inches)
10. Crimp end cap

### Brake Cable Replacement

**Removal:**
1. Release brake quick-release if available
2. Loosen cable anchor at brake caliper
3. Pull cable free
4. Push cable through housing toward lever
5. Remove from brake lever

**Installation:**
1. Thread cable through lever (barrel nipple usually)
2. Route through housing
3. Thread through caliper anchor
4. Set cable tension (brake pads should contact rim/rotor with moderate lever pull)
5. Tighten anchor bolt
6. Test braking feel
7. Adjust as needed
8. Trim and cap cable

### Tips for Clean Cuts

<Tip title="Cutting Technique">
Use proper cable cutters, not wire snips or pliers. Proper cutters make clean cuts that don't fray cables or crush housing. This is worth the tool investment.
</Tip>

**For housing:**
1. Cut with sharp, quality cutters
2. Inspect cut end—should be round, not crushed
3. Use awl or pick to clear liner if needed
4. Install ferrule immediately

**For cable:**
1. Cut at 45-degree angle
2. Clean cut prevents fraying
3. Crimp end cap immediately
4. Apply drop of superglue to end if desired

---

## Carrying Spares for Bikepacking

### What to Carry

**Minimum (weekend trips):**
- One shift cable (inner wire only)
- One brake cable (inner wire only)
- A few ferrules and end caps

**Extended trips:**
- Two shift cables
- Two brake cables
- Short sections of housing (6-12 inches each type)
- Spare ferrules and end caps
- Small lube bottle

### Why Carry Cables

**Cables fail in several ways:**
- Fray at anchor bolt (most common)
- Break at shifter head
- Corrosion from water exposure
- Kink from crash or impact

Without spare cables, a failure means:
- No shifting (walk or single-speed)
- Reduced braking (one brake only)
- Potential for dangerous situations

### Trail Cable Replacement

When proper cable replacement isn't possible, see our [Emergency Field Repairs Guide](/posts/emergency-field-repairs-bikepacking) for creative improvisation techniques.

**Challenges:**
- Limited tools
- Limited time
- No ideal conditions

**Realistic expectations:**
- Full cable/housing replacement difficult on trail
- Inner cable replacement is achievable
- Focus on getting functional, not perfect

**Trail process:**
1. Use existing housing if possible
2. Thread new inner cable through
3. Approximate tension settings
4. Fine-tune later when conditions allow

---

## Featured Products

<ProductCard
  name="Jagwire Pro Cable Kit"
  pickLabel="Our Pick"
  description="The complete replacement solution for both shifting and braking. Jagwire Pro kits include pre-stretched stainless cables that resist cable stretch, sealed compressionless housing that maintains crisp feel, and all the ferrules, end caps, and hardware for a full replacement. The sealed housing is especially valuable for bikepacking—it keeps water and grit out far better than open-coil housing. One kit services both front and rear brakes plus both derailleurs. Fresh cables with quality housing transforms shifting and braking feel."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UEUPRE?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Pre-stretched cables", "Sealed housing", "All hardware included", "Shift and brake cables", "Professional quality"]}
  specs="Complete shift and brake kit"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Shimano Stainless Steel Shift Cable"
  pickLabel="Budget Spare"
  description="Basic Shimano shift cables work with any mechanical derailleur and cost very little. Keep one or two in your repair kit as emergency spares. The standard 1.2mm diameter fits all modern shift systems, and the universal head design works with most shifters. Installation on trail requires minimal tools—just a way to cut cable and tension adjustment. These are the cables that have saved countless trips when primary cables failed unexpectedly."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012ZEQDE?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Universal compatibility", "Inexpensive enough to stock", "Standard 1.2mm diameter", "Stainless steel construction", "Essential repair kit item"]}
  specs="1.2mm x 2100mm, stainless steel"
  rating={4}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Shimano Stainless Steel Brake Cable"
  pickLabel="Budget Spare"
  description="Like the shift cable above, Shimano's basic brake cables provide reliable backup at minimal cost. The 1.6mm diameter handles braking loads, and the universal barrel head fits most brake levers. Brake cable failure is less common than shift cable failure, but when it happens, the consequences are more serious. Carry one as insurance—it weighs almost nothing and fits in any repair kit."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G7QFKG?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Universal barrel head", "1.6mm for brake loads", "Stainless steel", "Lightweight backup", "Fits most brake levers"]}
  specs="1.6mm x 2050mm, stainless steel"
  rating={4}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Park Tool CN-10 Cable Cutter"
  pickLabel="Essential Tool"
  description="Proper cable work requires proper cutters. The CN-10 makes clean cuts through both cable and housing without crushing or fraying. The compound leverage design provides enough force to cut shift and brake housing cleanly. The built-in crimper handles end caps and ferrules. If you're doing your own cable work—at home or on extended trips—this tool is essential. Cheap side cutters work once; the CN-10 works correctly every time."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OZBM2G?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Clean cuts without fraying", "Works on cable and housing", "Built-in crimper", "Professional quality", "Essential for cable work"]}
  specs="Hardened steel, compound leverage"
  rating={5}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Jagwire Cable End Crimps"
  pickLabel="Stock Up"
  description="Every cable end needs a crimp to prevent fraying. These Jagwire crimps are aluminum, fit standard cable sizes, and come in bulk packs. Keep extras in your repair kit—you'll use them eventually. Clean crimps look professional and protect cable ends from unraveling. A bag of 100 lasts most home mechanics years. Match the size to your cables: 1.2mm for shift, 1.6mm for brake."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WYCC4Q?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Bulk pack for value", "Aluminum construction", "Standard sizes", "Essential finishing hardware", "Stock up and forget"]}
  specs="Aluminum, 100 count"
  rating={4}
/>

<ProductCard
  name="Shimano Cable Housing"
  pickLabel="Housing Spare"
  description="If you need to replace housing sections, Shimano's standard housing works with any mechanical system. Available in shift (linear) and brake (coiled) versions—don't interchange them. Cutting housing requires proper tools and technique, but carrying a 12-inch section of each type provides emergency repair capability. Pre-cut with ferrules installed before your trip for easier trail repair."
  amazonLink="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C147OI?linkCode=ll1&tag=besamadea0bd-20"
  highlights={["Standard compatibility", "Shift and brake versions", "Quality construction", "Available everywhere", "Carry pre-cut sections"]}
  specs="5mm diameter, various lengths"
  rating={4}
/>

---

## Cable Maintenance

### Extending Cable Life

**Lubrication:**
- Light oil on inner cables periodically
- Don't over-lubricate (attracts dirt)
- Focus on housing entry points

**Protection:**
- Use ferrules on all housing ends
- End caps on all cable ends
- Avoid tight bends in routing

**Inspection:**
- Check anchor points regularly
- Look for fraying at high-wear points
- Replace at first sign of problems

### Storage

**For bikes in storage:**
- Shift to slack position (small cog, small ring)
- Release brake quick-release if equipped
- Reduces cable tension during storage

**For spare cables:**
- Keep straight—avoid tight coils
- Store in dry location
- Check before packing for trips

---

## Troubleshooting

| Symptom | Possible Cause | Solution |
|---------|----------------|----------|
| Stiff shifting | Housing friction, cable fraying | Lubricate or replace |
| Spongy brake lever | Cable stretch, anchor slip | Retension or replace |
| Clicking at shifter | Frayed cable at nipple | Replace cable |
| Cable won't seat | Wrong nipple type | Check compatibility |
| Quick corrosion | Low-quality cable | Use stainless steel |
| Housing splits | Age, UV damage | Replace housing |

---

## FAQ

**How do I know if it's a cable problem or derailleur problem?**

Disconnect the cable from the derailleur. Does the derailleur spring back properly? If yes, the problem is cable-related. If the derailleur is stiff or doesn't return, the problem is in the derailleur mechanism.

**Can I use brake cable for shifting?**

No. Brake cables are thicker (1.6mm vs 1.2mm) and won't fit through shift system. The nipple shapes also differ. Use the correct cable type.

**My new cables stretch quickly. Is this normal?**

New cables stretch slightly as they seat. Pre-stretched cables minimize this. Expect to adjust tension after the first few rides with new cables, then they should stabilize.

**Can I lubricate cables to extend life?**

Light lubrication helps, but contaminated housing eventually needs replacement. Lube delays but doesn't prevent wear. If lubing doesn't restore smooth feel, replace the system.

**Are coated cables worth the extra cost?**

PTFE-coated cables run smoother and resist corrosion better than bare stainless. For bikepacking in varied weather, the extra durability is worth the modest price increase.

**What about hydraulic brakes?**

Hydraulic systems don't use cables—they use fluid in sealed hoses. This guide applies to mechanical (cable-actuated) systems only.

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## Related Guides

- [Complete Bikepacking Maintenance Guide](/posts/complete-bikepacking-maintenance-guide) - Full maintenance overview
- [Derailleur Adjustment Guide](/posts/derailleur-adjustment-repair-bikepacking) - When cables are fine but shifting isn't
- [Disc Brake Maintenance](/posts/bikepacking-disc-brake-maintenance) - Brake-specific care
- [Multi-Tool Guide](/posts/the-one-multi-tool-you-need-for-your-next-bikepacking-trip) - Tools for cable work

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Cables are cheap. The work they do is critical. Regular inspection, timely replacement, and carrying spares ensure that this simple component never ends your trip.

Check your cables. Carry backups. Ride with confidence.


shifting

Derailleur Adjustment and Repair for Bikepacking: Master Your Shifting

Shift Cable and Brake Cable Replacement for Bikepacking